As usual when we look at the Spring collections over here from an Pop Art Fashion/Street Wear view it's more about concept, spirit of the times and style and less about classic fashion, tailoring and handicraft.

LONDON is interesting right now, it's a the aftermath of the Do-It-Yourself/Nu Rave/ New Generation of Pop Art/Street Wear scene, and the fashion establishment don't see this scene as charming youngstas anymore. Instead they re commanded to get "real" if they want continued attention from the FASHION angle. Yet the liberal spirit of this movement is still floating over the London Fashion Scene as a whole and makes it more varigating than other citys fashion weeks.

At the same time we re starting to get rid of the hang-arounds, now the real talent in the new generation is uncoverd.

HOUSE of HOLLAND

I still like Henry Holland. Yes dude became a mascot for the New London together with then it-girl Agyness (yes she was there in the audiance her new Beatles cut)when he came out, but that doesen't automaticly mean he's outdated. SS 09's Beverly Hills Collection showed he was moving forward, the Pantone one was an attempt to get closer to the "real" fashion world, where he also lost something. Now he's back to his roots. Of course it's a clash in London between those "real" fashion brands and these Pop Art matching n mixing DIY and doing Collabos-brands as House Of Holland. We see here the result of a Levi's collabo that I appreciate just cause of that right tone of jeans blue and the tacky cuts! The twotone sets in Khaki and cerise/purple + the contrast between the beige suits and those small bricks is ok. There is some exceptions though that just suits as plain padding and the question that remains is what direction brands like House Of Holland will take in the future.

MARK FAST

We fall in love with Mark Fasts knitwear last season, for this collection the intricate level had risen and was more diversyfying. Where I saw Jamaican dancehall queens last year I know see latinas. Fast is handicraft - Fashion, and I line up my own pop parallels, the smart ones with popcultural parallels this season keep the styling clean like we see here. See more here

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON

The favorite among the Boho-Chic's had finally tighten up but still using sam vibrant color palette. See more here

 

JASMINE DE MILO

Clean yet sexy, would have worked perfect for NYFW, but fell in the dark among everything happening in London. See more here 

DANIELLE SCUTT

Last years collection was great and so is this one, Scutt got a fantastic feeling for prints and mixing and proved she'll be around for a while. I have one simple objection and that is the hair, wich felt a ltoo Harajuku 2004 for me.

scutt

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL

Slowly fashion of today moving towards Queen Viv again, give it 1 year and we ll see Vivienne Westwoods classic silouettes, layer on layer, cotton etc on more runeways than the Westwoodesque. See more here 

RICHARD NICOLL

Supersweet collection from Richard Nicoll, not your avarge girly colorful thingy, cause of interessting details and the courage to keep those details simple nearly "home made" when other designers in the same leauge just try to make it complex, this togheter with great make up and accessoires puts an unique touch on the whole collection. As Nicoll himself says "Urban Escapism".

 TODD LYNN

Coming from the same school of inspiration as Rick Owens, Todd Lynn's ss 10 was at it's best when nomandic in natural colorscale and distinct silouette. See more here

LOUISE GOLDIN

Will be a new favourite in High End circles, very 2009... Goldin has done her Jean Paul Gaultier homelesson but put it in a cleaner context that will at attract fashion people that always seen JPG and his alikes as too ployish (see the styling comment on Mark Fast)

 PAUL SMITH

I, after seeing it, just read that this collection is inspired by the amzing style of Saphe (I ve post about it tomorrow, got a map on my computor but just forgot about it)that became one of own inspirations of last year so of course that's why I this so much, and on top of that there is some parallels to old Vivienne Westwoods Collections too! Another LDN-favouite!

MEADHAM KIRCHOFF

Interessting when it becomes a female version of Juun J, See more here

CHRISTOPHER KANE

Kane's going back to the british roots with loads of classic gingham fabrics and gives us Oi Girls mashed up with Golden Girls, sounds hilarious but looks amazing!!! See more here

MARY KATRANTZOU

One of the new school pattern makers in Basso and Brookes lead is talented Mary Katrantzou, she keeps evolving in this Collection that reminds me of 70 ies Record Covers Artwork (with it's flirt with Art Deco). See more here

 

LOUISE GRAY

...loves Vivienne Westwood as much as we do

PPQ

Some called it ploy for extra coverage other said it was about time London Fashion Week had a runway with nearly 100% black models. PPQs Nefertiti models turned heads and the clothes was cute but nothing more or less. Btw is PPQ the brand Amy Winehouse was said to be working with for a new line.See more here

See more/ all photos via Style.com London Fashion Week!

LUELLA

...is stuck in  50'ies land, see more here